First up, tell us a bit about yourself. That’s leading forecasters to predict some swell for Western Europe and Northern Africa for the last chapter of Alex’s unique journey. Had you planned where to score prior to this mackin' 50-year storm swinging in? When Hurricane Ophelia hit, Eoin knew of a few sheltered spots on the east coast that might hold the swell but it was also going to be wild and windy, so we didn’t know what to expect. You didn’t have to be a well versed surf forecaster to know Bodhi was off his rocker spewing prophecies of a 50 years storm that would bring the biggest waves man has ever seen to…Bells Beach (errr, somewhere in Oregon). ... And just because Atlanta has had its 100-year storm this year… So, when an actual 50-year storm delivers, it sure peaks interest from surfers all over the globe.

This chart shows the size (in meters) of waves you'd expect to see at least once every 100 years, derived from wave buoy and satellite data.

This is pretty unheard of in Ireland or even deemed to be a farce if you told any regular Irish surfer. The last couple of swells have hit maximum significant height values of almost exactly 30ft at their peak with Feb 1st briefly showing 34ft - well within what we might reasonably expect over a 50 year period. This is simply an average, over a typical time frame of 20 minutes, of the largest one third of all the waves. If Bells reaches the required size and the event is called on, it will be a legitimate challenge for the invitees. Under strict COVID guidelines, of course. To be exact, when the National Hurricane Center upgraded Alex to a hurricane this week it became the first hurricane to form in January since 1938 and the first to occur in January since 1955. It's almost whispered in hushed, whimsical tones amongst our humble culture.

In fact he was very wrong – on predicting the timing, the location of the storm, and well, he was crazy to think Bells would turn into some outer reef distributor of 100 foot waves. I started shooting surf edits with Eoin three-years-ago but it was really only last year when we decided to up our game and chase swells around Ireland and the rest of the world.

It’s the storm … This was off the back of countless hours scouring the east coast, researching charts and having an intimate knowledge of the fickle nature of the Irish Sea. These monitoring stations give us a huge amount of data about the make up of an incoming swell. We surfed with a few others for an hour but it was chunky and cross shore at best and again we felt slightly disappointed. We use cookies to deliver a reliable and personalised Magicseaweed experience.

Remember Ophelia, steaming into the UK? By browsing Magicseaweed, you agree to our use of cookies. Sitting in deeper water, just away from the coast, the wave buoy or light vessel measures (by movement from the surface or changes in pressure from the seabed) the movement of water up and down above the sea bed.

We knew this was promising as the wind direction was more favourable and actually the gusts were due to drop off pretty quickly after the eye of the storm had passed. But not for Eoin, he has been surfing the east coast his whole life and knows that if you are patient and know where to look, it is possible to score some of the best beach breaks in Ireland. Yet there are characteristics that make this surf zone unique. The first issue we have to remove is subjective observation. Eoin’s father, David Deering, was one of the strongest advocates of surfing on the east coast and pioneered many of the more secluded spots. It aims to get groms in the water on the east coast as much as possible, all the while hosting children’s competitions and coastal clean ups.

Then, a few days later another chart appeared…dubbed as “Storm Brian”, a rapidly deepening depression was expected to hit in the coming days with wind gusts of 130km per hour. Hurricane seasons is officially on each year from the beginning of June until the end of November, making this week’s Hurricane Alex one of the most random storms of its kind ever. It's tremendously useful because it gives a real idea of the general size of the larger waves in a swell and that process of averaging removes the kind of data errors that typically creep in when trying to show just the one very largest wave. East coast surfers will always be stoked no matter what the conditions and that creates a good vibe in and out of the water. The 50-year storm. Why Bodhi’s 50 Year Storm Is Actually a 60 Year Storm Creating Waves Right Now. Shaun, a former World Junior and Victorian Open champion, took his own life in 2012 after a long battle with mental illness. We knew that we would have to drop all our commitments to fully reap the rewards of finding once in a lifetime conditions on the east coast. We were stoked but also a little frustrated that we couldn’t find perfection. I don’t think Eoin has ever changed into his wetsuit so fast. We use cookies to deliver a reliable and personalised Magicseaweed experience. As well as giving us the ability to pick out some specific storms in a similar range to tomorrow's, we can also use some fairly simple and elegant maths, and this data to look at what sort of swell extremes might be likely to occur here.

The huge swell hitting Europe tomorrow is quite probably going to create larger waves in coastal waters than the previous three in 2014. TRACK the storm on our all new wave buoy interface HERE, *DO NOT miss our animation of the North Atlantic winter in 23 seconds HERE.

I live pretty close to a consistent east coast beachbreak and that is where I met Eoin McCarthy Deering for the first time in 2015.

The previous generation of surfers on this coast inspired us to make the most of the waves we have on offer here and now we wish to shine the light on the joys of the Irish Sea for the next generation of east coast surfers to come. You mention it could be one of the best days on the east coast, have you surfed there as much as Eoin? It obviously helped that he shared his knowledge and stoke for surfing with his son from an early age which led to infinite amounts of joy spent relishing in the wonders of the east coast for Eoin and many of his friends. And ever since it was first given an airing in Point Break, the thought of such a storm has garnered its own cult following, much like the 1991 film. On the back of a run of such significant swell and the consequent coastal damage caused in areas of Northern Europe which typically see full exposure to storms of this size, it's tempting to assume we are witnessing something unprecedented. WATCH: Leo Fio vs Kikas Vs Kanoa Igarashi in Portugal, 100% advert-free browsing experience on any device, Unlimited advert-free HD webcam streaming, Long-range forecast experience without interuptions. Under strict COVID guidelines, of course. My name is Freddie Browne, I’m from Dublin and I’ve been surfing the east coast since 2004. We couldn’t believe that we potentially had scored the best swell to ever hit the east coast. Tomorrow's storm is currently forecast to peak at 37ft in deep water around Western Cornwall. If you're building an expensive coastal structure you need to ensure it's constructed to withstand whatever nature throws at it.

Obviously one can’t compare the waves on west coast with the fickle East.

This is the same number you'll typically see on a forecast for waves (eg. The answer depends on how long your memory is, but following data we conclude 'infrequent but not unusual'.

Jeff Masters, director of meteorology for Weather Underground seems to think this is a direct product of global warming, even though hurricanes have formed in every calendar month in the past.“It is unlikely that Alex would have formed if these waters had been close to normal temperatures for this time of year,” he says. It was only when we went on a mission further afield and drove to a fickle beach break that we realised how lucky we were in the end. I’m now working as a videographer in Dublin and I guess you could say my passion for film stems from shooting surfing. Well in excess of the latest forecast for tomorrow. The edit's above but we caught up with Freddie to ask just what it takes to score the 50-year storm and be one of the first humans to recount the real-life tale. Updated 681d ago. “The unusually warm waters for Alex were due, in part, to the high levels of global warming that brought earth its warmest year on record in 2015.”. Between the horrendous rip and relentless wind this was a truly testing session yet Eoin managed to snag a few solid double over head runners. They were most likely the biggest waves ever ridden on the east coast. Then the tide started to drop off and the waves started to close out.

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